Monday, April 17, 2017

Bridges & Boulders, Part 1

                                            by  Major Tom

Silent Panther and Major Tom had a crazy idea…a 2-day hike in the Southern Catskills! We would do Samson Mountain and Bangle Hill the first day, camp at Sundown Primitive Campground, and hike Peekamoose and Table Mountain the second day. What could go wrong?

Day 1 was a 10-mile hike from Riggsville to Bull Run. The weather was great, we got an early start, and life was peachy keen. We left a car at Sundown, drove down to Upper Cherrytown Road, and got rolling.

Even though we started with a long uphill climb, we were amazed at our progress…we were averaging 2 miles per hour over rough terrain! We took pictures at the beautiful Vernooy Falls…would have been happy to spend the day there. In fact, we both had a nice Hikers’ High, and were in great spirits J


We crossed countless streams, over innumerable bridges, every shape, size and style. The first wildflowers were opening up, almost before our eyes. There was virtually no animal activity visible, and hardly any bird calls. We literally did not see a single other hiker in 6 hours. It was a beautiful day…where was everybody?

Maybe they were scared away by the “steep and long” descent at the end of the hike! Ascending Bangle Hill was smooth sailing, but the downhill was brutal and interminable. We have hiked many trails over several years, done much longer hikes, and climbed up and down slopes where all fours were required. But never has a hill taken such an epic toll on the knees! Perhaps because the old wood road was so long and steep, perhaps because the slope never changed, I don’t know. But Major Tom had to stop and rest his knees a few times.


Silent Panther was giddy and goofy. He said “The farther down I go, the higher I get!” We followed a beautiful stream with endless small waterfalls, over a mile of straight descent in a V-shaped valley. When we got to the trail register at the bottom, Major Tom wobbled over to sign out. The previous entry read: “Bangle Hill. Steep descent? Nah.” We assumed that was Hikers’ Sarcasm.


As the trail reached Peekamoose Road, there was an enormous boulder decorated with grafitti. We were impressed to see that Kim Jon Ill (sic) had left his calling card! As we walked to the campsite, we felt that our tribulations were all behind us. Little did we know…



Since we had made such good time, we had plenty of daylight to set up camp. We wrangled the tent together, and built a nice fire. There was no electricity, no running water, no cell service, but hey…it was the wilderness! As the fire dimmed, the stars blazed. We saw the Big Dipper, Orion, Taurus and the Pleidaes. When it got really dark, we saw the Milky Way, which is not visible at home. While looking for a meteor, we found the International Space Station, and followed its orbit. All this while enjoying sandwiches and water! Life was good.



But…as the night progressed, the temperature dropped alarmingly. Major Tom’s sleeping bag turned out to be lacking a zipper. This proved troublesome all night, as his feet turned into blocks of ice! We woke up to frost in the morning, gulped down a cold breakfast, and hit the road. The adventures of the second day will be chronicled by Silent Panther, in Part 2.

However, I would like to end Part 1 on a happy note. Back in the 1970’s, I had visited my Aunt Helen in Ithaca, NY. She took my family to the Cornell Ornithology Lab, and we met the legendary Peter Paul Kellogg. He taught us the call of the Barred Owl: “Who cooks for you? Who cooks for you all?” In all the years since, I have never heard that call in nature (although I have imitated it for many young uns).


As night fell on day 1, we heard an owl across the stream. It was saying “Who cooks? Who cooks?” I was disappointed, because I did not recognize that call. But toward morning, after a long night of tossing and turning and freezing, I heard what seemed to be the same owl. And this time, it asked about “you all”. Thank you, Mr. Kellogg.

Bridges & Boulders, part 2

                               by Silent Panther

After somehow surviving a nearly sleepless night in the freezing cold, we got up at the crack of dawn and prepared for the second day of hiking.  We said goodbye to our campsite, never more grateful for the heating systems in our cars, before driving and dropping off the cars at each end of the hike.  Along the way we spotted two glorious bald eagles perched in the trees and made sure to stop to get a picture.
Shortly after we began hiking we realized we were in for a long day.  Unlike the previous day’s hike which began with optimism and was easier than expected, this hike was initially marked by fatigue and frustration.  We were sore and sleep-deprived and quickly became dismayed as the hike began with a long series of steep, never-ending inclines.  We were certain the guide’s mile markers were off as it took an eternity to scale Peekamoose Mountain. 

Our spirits eventually brightened when we reached a series of landmarks:  outcrops of large boulders, a spring, and a sign confirming that we had reached 3,500 feet in elevation, which the soreness in our legs told us was a drastic understatement.  The views from the top of Peekamoose gave us an idea of why we were crazy enough to do this in the first place as we gazed out upon the endless hills and serene fields of the Catskills.


After a much needed rest in the midst of a dwarf spruce forest straight out of Lord of the Rings, we flew down the surprisingly snowy trail with new life in our battered bodies.  

An easier ascent up Table Mountain was followed by a painful, knee-punishing descent.  Additional misery arrived when we realized we weren’t done going uphill.  We had to scale two hills described as “small knolls” which looked more like Himalayan horrors.  Our reward for conquering the knolls was an awesome log bridge which carried us high over a crystal clear stream.


  We encountered a few more bridges, as well as some campers, as we ground out the final stretch of the hike and triumphantly exited out onto Denning Road, having conquered 18 miles of rough Long Path hiking in two epic days.