On Top of the Catskills

We stood on top of an outcrop of sedimentary rock, ringed by dark spruces and firs. There were glimpses of distant peaks, and a feeling that anything could happen. Suddenly, snowflakes drifted out of the mid-April sky. It was a perfect moment to be at the summit of Slide Mountain, on top of the Catskills.

Much earlier, the four of us had stumbled out of bed way downstate, and packed into the vehicle for a day trip to the mountains. Zman, big and furry, fell asleep right away. MJ demonstrated her driving skills. Silent Panther was lost in the hiking zone. Major Tom comtemplated a variety of trail options. Up route 17 to Liberty, then farther and farther into the foothills. Frost Valley Road swept right and left around the great curves of the Neversink River. We decided to park at the Slide Mountain trailhead, start up the yellow trail, and join the Long Path at the ridge.

As we eased into the woods, all the stress of the long drive melted away. The waters of the Neversink chattered quietly to each other as we picked our way across, from stone to stone. A kingfisher perched in silent vigil above the stream. The water level seemed very low for April; I guess there's not much snowmelt this year. Onwards and upwards, we wound our way through a patch of spring beauties, with their delicate pink and white flowers. It was also fun to see striped maples, which do not occur downstate. As we headed uphill, the hardwoods gave way to evergreens.

A trail split off to the right, heading to the Denning Road parking area. We plowed on up the hill, a long and steady rise. Major Tom suggested stopping for a rest, but MJ said that we might not get going again, so we soldiered on. Soon we were switching back and forth through dense evergreens. She said it reminded her of narrow alleys in some ancient European city. Suddenly Zman announced that there was snow on the ground up ahead. Not likely; we had not seen that downstate since the middle of January. But he was right, and the snow patches become more frequent, til we we walking on a continuous bed of ice and snow. A couple passed us heading down. They claimed that we would reach the top in 20 minutes. Totally untrue!

After slipping and sliding up the trail up the trail for another half hour, we met a family descending the slope. Just around the bend they said. Another lie! But it was a beautiful day, and great exercise. We saw a swath of trees that had been blown down by a mighty wind. Views were starting to open up on the left side of the trail. An elderly couple sped down the trail, in ridiculously good shape. They had ski poles, and what looked like chains on their boots. Meanwhile our Zman was wearing shorts and a t-shirt, with his hair flying everywhere. Silent Panther was getting ridiculous, being the opposite of silent. Their wild energy and bizarre commentary propelled us up the highest mountain in the Catskills.

By this point, we were on the route of the Long Path. Along this ridge, the LP follows the Wittenberg-Cornell Slide Trail. It seemed strange to see red blazes instead of "Long Path Blue." The snow was packed smooth by many feet, and was very slippery in spots. The air was cold, but we had worked up quite a sweat. Eventually, the trail leveled out, and we found the foundation of an old fire tower. We were at 4,180 feet above sea level! A little farther, and we reached our destination: the outcrop surrounded by evergreens. It's a magical spot, with just tantalizing hints of a panoramic view. Some of the dates carved in the rock were very old, and the snow shower seemed out of time as well. This place had experienced many things over the years. A very patient and wise rock outcrop. Major Tom wanted to sit and eat, but was outvoted. Onwards and downwards!

We ran helter skelter down much of the trail, skidding and laughing. The ice seemed to know that it was an endangered species at this point, and did not try too hard to slip us up. Between snow flurries, the sun came out and felt quite warm. Soon this ice will be adding to the meager flow of the river below. The ankle gods were also on our side, as no one twisted anything on the long, cobbley downslope. Silent Panther made due note of the trail junction we will need to reach in the future, so that we cover every step of the Long Path.

Back across the river, to the car, the stretch and the tick check. It was a long drive home. We were quiet, filled with our thoughts. It's not easy to shift mental gears from mountain mode to modern mode. Part of your mind stays in that snow flurry, surrounded by conifers, on top of the catskills.